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Bodice & Skirt: Black Silk
(was Brown Velvet)
Gown (3rd layer)
This will be made out of Brown Velveteen with a placard to cover the front lacing. Skirt will be split to reveal the flocked petticoat underneath.
Still at the underpinning stage right now. Check out Petticoat.
With the completion of the Kirtle, I am ready to imbark on making the Tudor dresses. There will be two gowns: One undergown called a Kirtle & One gown made of brown velvet. (this page)
I will use the same bodice pattern from the Kirtle There will be different openings though. I think both will use front lacing. I'll just have to see how it goes.
The Kirtle is back lacing. I now have to start on the overgown. It's been a while, I have to dig out the old patterns. I have to figure out what kind of bodice opening I'll use. Period would be front lacing with a placard over it and pins in place.
I may be crazy, but I'd like to do this overgown by 12th Night Jan 2012
I got out the fabric and pattern to make the attempt. Since I made the Kirtle back lacing, this will be front lacing as originally planned.
I have some seagreen china silk, I'm going to use this as the lining for the skirt. If I hike up the train, the silk will show. Also it is show if the velvet folds back on itself in the front.
Since I started this project so many years ago, I mis labeled the parts of the Dress. This 3rd layer is called: The Gown It is one piece with skirt and sleeves all attached to the bodice. I cannot find the original bodice pattern, no worries, I have the Kirtle to use as the pattern.
almost 8 yards of the brown velveteen (2" shy of the mark)
10.5 yards of the china silk lining in sea green
7 yards of orange china silk
Will use the orange for the turn-back sleeves. They would have worn fur, but it was very cold back then and I don't need it. Further I'm using from stash and not buying any fabric.
I'm crazy!! TOTAL change in plans. I'm going to use black silk and the china sea green silk for the Gown. I'll use this combo later for another gown. Part of the reason is the weight. The Kirtle weighs a ton already and with the wide Tudor Sleeves making the Gown out of Velveteen is like adding another 10 lbs to the dress. The silk is lightweight!
7.5 yds of black silk at 60" wide
Cut the sleeves out today using the silk lining and the sleeve head is too tight! I was using the Tudor Tailor Pattern. Now to start over...sigh
In Search of the Perfect Sleeve Head
Did I every tell you that fitting the sleeve to the body of the bodice is the bane of my existance...well now I have, so I meshed a larger sleeve head to the TT's lower sleeve and vola!
It does pay to make a mock up. Cut out the back pieces of the Tudor Gown Bodice and it is not going to fit me without some modifications. The back back is OK, it the side back piece which forms the armhole that is the issue. It's too tight in the armhole and it does's go around and sit on the body perpendicular. It's an odd shap too. Photo to follow
the armhole is very tight on me. I don't think there is enough ease to add sleeves to it, so I have to make a modification. Also the waist is too small for me as well so I have to add a bit of width here as well.
I'm going to keep the pattern as is for the bodice. I've tried it on several times now and the gap at the back of the shoulder goes away when the front is pulled forward. This will happen when the front piece is sewen in place. The arm hole seems small but it does fit me, So I'm going back to the sleeve head to rework that. I want a smooth shoulder as was period and the new sleeve head would be puffed a bit.
I need to cut 3 layers out for the bodice for the final version (not there yet folks)